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July 8. The northern half of the Klondike Highway is spectacular. I don’t have the words, so please look at the pictures.
We made two very interesting stops at native village interpretive centres. The first just south of Carmacks was called “Tage Cho Hudan” meaning Big River People, referring to the Yukon river. We met a multi-generational family and one lady in particular was very willing to explain many aspects of their lives. We watched an aunt making a ceremonial vest of moose skin with many embroidered bead figures and fancy stitching. It is intended for an uncle in Regina who is marrying at the end of the month. Incredible work – and time consuming. Family relationships are defined differently. A young girl anxious to tell us about her things has multiple grandmothers, because your sister’s and brother’s grandchildren are also your grandchildren. Thus the family becomes larger, and all look after each other more closely.
The other village centre, the Northern Tuchone (teh-cho-né) people, was at Pelly’s Crossing. Their clan system is composed of two ‘moities’, the Wolf Clan and the Crow Clan. A matrilineal system, your clan affiliation is determined by what clan your mother is from. A Crow must marry a Wolf, or vice versa, according to traditional law.

There were many sections of highway under repair and thus lots of gravel, some dusty some muddy. Late afternoon as we arrived, the rig got a thorough wash again so we could be presentable at the campground in Dawson City where we shall be for about 10 days. The weather is perfect – mid 20s, sunshine and clear dry air. More about Dawson next time.

14 Klondike Highway